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Published on February 8, 2025
Written by Sayed Sajadi — certified appliance technician and owner of Fair Appliance Repair Service, Sacramento. Thousands of oven repairs were completed across the region.
An electric oven that won't heat up is most often caused by a burned-out bake or broil element, a tripped breaker on one leg of its 240-volt circuit, a failed temperature sensor, or an active Control Lock / Demo Mode. Many causes are DIY-checkable in minutes. This guide covers all 10 causes, brand resets, repair costs, and when to call a Sacramento oven technician.
Most no-heat calls in Sacramento start with one of these. They take five minutes.
● Power and the 240-volt circuit. Electric ovens run on a 240-volt double-pole breaker. If only one leg (often called L2) trips, the oven powers on and the light works, but it will not heat. Reset the kitchen/range breaker fully OFF then ON.
● Control Lock or Demo Mode. Many ovens have a Control Lock or showroom Demo Mode that disables heating. Hold the Lock button for about 3 seconds to clear it, or follow the brand resets below.
● Oven door not sealing. A door that won't latch fully lets heat escape. Check the gasket, hinges, and that racks/bakeware aren't blocking the door.
1. Burned-Out Bake Element
The bake element at the bottom provides most of the heat. Check: Set the oven to bake; if the element doesn't glow evenly red, or shows cracks, blisters, or burn spots, it has failed and needs a model-specific replacement.
2. Burned-Out Broil Element
The broil element at the top is easy to overlook. If your oven bakes weakly or only the broiler is dead, inspect the top element for the same cracks and blistering and test it with a multimeter for continuity.
3. Tripped Breaker or Lost Power Leg
Electric ovens draw heavy current, and older Sacramento homes trip easily. If the breaker keeps tripping after a reset, or one 240-volt leg is missing, you have an electrical fault that needs an electrician or technician.
4. Faulty Wiring or Burnt Connections
Years of heat cycles loosen, corrode, or burn the wiring behind the rear panel. Fix: With the breaker OFF, inspect for melted or loose wires and replace with manufacturer-approved parts. Wiring work is risky — call a pro if unsure.
5. Blown Thermal Fuse or High-Limit Safety
A thermal fuse cuts power if the oven overheats, often after a self-clean cycle. Check: Test the high-limit thermostat/fuse with a multimeter and replace if there's no continuity. Repeated trips point to poor ventilation or a deeper fault.
6. Bad Oven Temperature Sensor
The sensor (a thin tube at the back) tells the control board the cavity temperature. If it's wrong, the board won't send power to the elements. Check: It should sit at a 90° angle, not touching the wall. Test resistance with a multimeter; replace if readings don't change with heat.
7. Error Code or Damaged Sensor Wiring
Codes like F1 or F3 usually flag a sensor or wiring fault. Fix: Look up the code in your manual, inspect the sensor wiring for breaks or corrosion, and replace the sensor or harness as needed.
8. Failed Control Board (or Active Control Lock)
If every element and the sensor test good, the main control board may not be sending power — or a Control Lock / Demo Mode is still on. Clear the lock first; if heating still fails, the board likely needs replacing (the most expensive repair).
9. Oven Door Won't Seal or Worn Gasket
A cracked or stiff gasket, or misaligned hinges, lets heat leak out so the oven never reaches temperature. Fix: Replace a worn gasket and realign the hinges. In older Sacramento rentals, worn gaskets are a frequent culprit.
10. Faulty Selector or Thermostat
The selector switch chooses bake/broil mode; a burnt switch or out-of-calibration thermostat means no heat or the wrong temperature. Check: Test with a multimeter and replace if defective; some thermostats can be recalibrated.
The parts are similar, but resets and lockouts differ by brand.
● GE: Power-cycle at the breaker for 30 seconds. Clear Control Lock by holding the lock pad ~3 seconds; check for an active Sabbath mode, which disables normal heating.
● Whirlpool / KitchenAid: Hold the Control Lock pad for 3 seconds to unlock. After a power blip the oven may need the clock reset before it will heat.
● LG: Exit Demo Mode and clear lockout per the display; an LG range that turns on but won't heat is often a sensor or one-leg power issue.
● Samsung: Disable Demo/Showroom mode, then power-cycle for 5 minutes. Check for a "Cooling/Lock" indicator on the panel.
A healthy electric oven preheats in about 12–15 minutes, according to appliance manufacturer guidance from KitchenAid. If yours takes much longer, suspect a weak bake element, low voltage at the outlet, or foil on the oven floor restricting airflow. Use an oven thermometer on the center rack at 350°F and compare after 15 minutes — a large gap means a calibration or element problem.
Knowing the numbers helps you decide between DIY and a service call:
Repair-vs-replace rule: replace the oven when the repair cost exceeds 50% of a new unit's price, or when an oven older than 10 years needs a control board plus another major part.
● Do it yourself: resetting the breaker, clearing Control Lock / Demo Mode, checking the door seal, repositioning the temperature sensor, and swapping a visibly burned-out element if you're comfortable.
● Call a certified Sacramento technician for: burnt or melted wiring, a failed control board, repeated breaker or thermal-fuse trips, or any 240-volt diagnosis. Always disconnect power before opening panels to avoid electrocution — the U.S. Department of Energy and every manufacturer recommend de-energizing an appliance before service.
If you've worked through these checks and the oven still won't heat, it's time for a technician. Fair Appliance Repair Service has completed thousands of oven repairs across Sacramento and nearby areas. Every technician is factory-trained, licensed, and insured, and same-day oven and wall oven repair in Sacramento is available with warranties on parts. If you have a gas model instead, see our guide on why your gas oven won't light, or for stovetop issues on our range repair page.
Service areas: Sacramento, Elk Grove, Roseville, Rancho Cordova, Citrus Heights, Fair Oaks, Folsom, Carmichael, West Sacramento, and Davis.
Fair Appliance Repair Service
341 Rick Heinrich Cir, Sacramento, CA 95835
Call or text 916-333-8388 or book online.
Find Us On Google Maps : https://maps.app.goo.gl/A6DQaLrNbP7c2EhQ8
Q1: Why is my oven not heating but the stove or broiler works?
If the cooktop or broiler works but the oven won't bake, the bake element or its wiring has usually failed, while the broil element and shared power are fine. A bad temperature sensor or control board can also stop the bake cycle. Test the bake element for continuity first.
Q2: Why is my oven on but not heating up?
One of the most common reasons an oven turns on but won't heat is a faulty temperature sensor, or a missing leg on the 240-volt circuit. Confirm the sensor sits at a 90° angle without touching the wall, then reset both poles of the kitchen breaker before testing the elements.
Q3: How do I reset an electric oven that won't heat?
Switch the oven's breaker fully OFF for 30 seconds, then back ON. Clear any Control Lock or Demo Mode by holding the lock pad for about 3 seconds, and reset the clock if power is lost. Allow the oven to run a normal preheat to confirm it heats again.
Q4: Why does my electric oven take so long to preheat?
A normal electric oven preheats in roughly 12–15 minutes. Longer times usually mean a weakening bake element, low outlet voltage, or foil blocking airflow on the oven floor. Verify the real temperature with an oven thermometer and have the element tested if the gap is large.
Q5: How much does oven repair cost in Sacramento?
Most electric oven repairs in the Sacramento area run between $120 and $350, depending on the part. Elements and sensors are at the lower end, while a control board can reach $250–$450. If the repair tops 50% of a new oven's price, replacement is the smarter choice.
Q6: Should I repair or replace my electric oven?
Repair an oven under 10 years old with a single failed part such as an element or sensor. Consider replacement when an oven over 10 years old needs a control board plus another major component, or when total repair cost exceeds half the price of a comparable new unit.
