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Published on January 18, 2026
Most dishwashers stop filling with water because something in the fill chain is blocked or sending the wrong signal. The usual culprits are: a stuck float switch, a closed or kinked water supply line, a clogged or failed water inlet valve, or a door latch that isn’t fully closed. On new installs, the shut‑off valve is very often still off.
Fair Appliance Repair Service technicians see these problems every day in Sacramento and nearby areas and fix most “no‑fill” issues in a single visit.
When you press Start, your dishwasher runs through a simple checklist:
1.Door closed? – Door latch and door switch must say “closed.”
2.Tub empty enough? – The float and float switch must say “not full.”
3.OK to add water? – Control board or timer sends power to the water inlet valve.
4.Water enters the tub – Your home’s water pressure pushes water through the valve.
5.Stop filling – As the water level rises, the float lifts and tells the board to shut the valve.
● If any of these steps fails, you get symptoms like:
● Dishwasher running but not getting water
● Dishwasher not filling with enough water
● Dishwasher filling with water when not in use
● New dishwasher not filling with water
Understanding this chain makes troubleshooting much easier.
If you hear humming but no “whoosh” of water, the cycle has started but the tub is empty. That usually means:
● Water valve under the sink is closed or partly closed
● Float/float switch stuck in the “full” position
● Door latch switch not confirming the door is closed
Failed water inlet valve
If you open the door after hours and find clean water in the bottom even though the dishwasher was off, the water inlet valve is stuck partially open. Household water pressure slowly leaks past it into the tub. This must be fixed quickly to avoid flooding.
Here the fill system works, but the circulation pump or wash motor is failing, or the spray arms are badly clogged. Different problems, but users often Google it together with dishwasher not filling with water but washing – so it’s important to separate those two.
Water just covers the filter area, the top rack stays dirty, or there’s weak spray. Common reasons:
● Inlet valve screen partially clogged
● Float shutting off the fill too early
● Drain hose siphoning water out during the fill
● Some models misreading water level due to sensor issues
Brand‑new unit, first cycle, no water:
● Shut‑off valve under the sink left off
● Supply hose kinked behind the cabinet
● Installer tied into the wrong line
● In rare cases, debris from new plumbing clogging the inlet screen
If your dishwasher isn’t getting any water, first check the shut‑off valve under the sink and the supply hose. A half‑closed valve or a kinked line will stop water before it even reaches the machine. Make sure the valve is fully open and the hose runs in a smooth loop with no sharp bends.
How to check:
● Look under the sink and find the small valve feeding a thin copper or braided steel line to the dishwasher.
● Turn the handle fully counter‑clockwise.
● Trace the hose visually as far as you can; make sure it isn’t crushed or pinched.
● Run a short cycle and open the door after 1–2 minutes: is the tub wet?
If the tub is still bone‑dry, move on.
Your dishwasher will never fill with water if it thinks the door is open. A weak latch or misaligned door switch breaks the safety circuit, so the control board won’t power the inlet valve. You may see lights on the panel and hear relays click, but no water enters until the latch is adjusted or replaced.
DIY check:
● Close the door firmly and listen for a solid “click.”
● Push gently on the top of the door while it tries to start – if the lights flicker or the sound changes, the latch is suspect.
● Remove any food, racks, or utensils blocking the door from closing fully.
● Many Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Maytag models show a flashing Start/Resume light when the door switch isn’t happy.
If tightening the screws and cleaning the area doesn’t help, the latch assembly or door switch likely needs replacement.
Every dishwasher has a float that rises with the water level. If grease, soap scum, or food jams float in the “up” position, the control board thinks the tub is already full and refuses to open the water inlet valve. A failed float switch under the float can cause the same “no‑fill” symptom.
DIY check:
1. Pull out the bottom rack and locate the float (often a small mushroom‑shaped dome at a front corner).
2. Lift it straight up and let it drop. It should move freely and you should hear a faint click.
3.If it’s sticky, clean around the base with warm soapy water and a cloth.
4. Start a new cycle and see if it now fills.
If it moves easily but doesn’t click, or there’s still no water, the float switch underneath may be bad and usually needs a technician.
The water inlet valve is the electrically controlled gate that lets water into your dishwasher. If the internal screen is clogged with mineral deposits or the solenoid coil burns out, the valve won’t open and the tub stays dry. You’ll often hear a low hum at the start of the cycle but see no water enter.
DIY visual check:
Turn off power at the breaker and close the water shut‑off.
Remove the lower kick plate to find where the house water line connects to the dishwasher.
Put a towel underneath, disconnect the supply line, and look into the valve’s small screen.
If it’s full of grit or white scale, gently clean it with a small brush or pick (don’t puncture the screen).
Electrical test (advanced DIY only):
With power off, remove the two wires from the valve coil.
Use a multimeter on the ohms setting; a good coil has resistance (for many models 500–2000 Ω).
A reading of “OL” (open line) means the coil is burned out – the valve must be replaced.
If you’re not comfortable around water and electricity together, this is the point where calling Fair Appliance Repair Service is safer than guessing.
If you’ve:
Opened the supply valve
Verified the door latch
Checked the float
Confirmed the inlet valve is not clogged and the dishwasher still does not fill with water, the problem may be electronic.
Common signs:
● Machine drains or hums but never clicks into fill
● No voltage at the inlet valve during the fill stage
● Random stopping mid‑cycle or strange error codes
Control boards and mechanical timers are expensive and tricky to test safely. This is usually not worth DIY unless you’re experienced with live‑voltage troubleshooting.
This section directly targets queries like “how to fix a dishwasher not filling with water” and “what to do if my dishwasher is not filling with water.”
1. Make sure the dishwasher has power and the door is fully closed.
2. Turn the hot water on at the kitchen faucet; confirm your home has water and pressure.
3. Look under the sink and open the dishwasher shut‑off valve fully.
4. Start a cycle and listen: humming with no water usually means a supply or valve issue.
1. Close the door and listen for a click; adjust racks or dishes if the door doesn’t close squarely.
2. Open the door, locate the float, and move it up and down. Clean any gunk underneath and be sure it “clicks” freely.
3. Try another cycle. If it still won’t fill, go deeper.
1. Cut power and close the shut‑off valve.
2. Remove the toe‑kick panel at the bottom front.
3. Find the valve where the water line connects; inspect the screen as described above.
If the screen is clear but the valve still doesn’t open, it likely needs replacement.
At this point you’ve ruled out the easy fixes. The likely issues now are:
● Failed inlet valve coil
● Bad float switch
● Control board / timer problem
● Wiring fault
This is where Fair Appliance Repair Service comes in: our Sacramento‑area technicians carry test equipment and parts for most major brands and can usually get you running the same day.
If the dishwasher slowly fills with clean water even when it’s off:
● The water inlet valve is stuck mechanically open.
● Household water pressure pushes water through all the time.
Do this:
● Turn off the shut‑off valve immediately.
● Do not run the dishwasher again until the valve is replaced.
● Call a professional quickly – a stuck valve can flood the kitchen.
Searches like “dishwasher not filling with hot water” usually point to:
● Unit connected to the cold line instead of hot
● Very long run from water heater so hot water never arrives in time
● Water heater temperature too low
Run the hot tap until water is hot before starting a cycle. If the supply line is on the wrong valve, a plumber or technician can correct it.
This is a red‑flag combination:
● Circulation motor stalled
● Shorted wiring at valve or board
● Overheating control board components
Turn the breaker off and do not run the appliance again until it’s inspected. This is a “call a pro now” situation.
Searches like “GE dishwasher not filling with water”, “Whirlpool dishwasher not filling with water”, “Bosch dishwasher not filling with water”, etc., are extremely common. The core causes are similar, but each brand has weak spots.
● GE / GE Profile dishwasher not filling with water
Often tied to a sensitive flood float or leak tray. Stuck floats or water in the base pan will block filling.
● Whirlpool dishwasher not filling with water
Newer models frequently have clogged inlet screens right after installation or a closed under‑sink valve. Also check that the drain hose has a proper high loop to prevent siphoning.
● KitchenAid dishwasher not filling with water
Shares many Whirlpool parts. A flashing Start/Resume light often points to a door latch or door switch issue.
● Maytag dishwasher not filling with water
Heavy‑duty pumps can be noisy; open the door mid‑cycle to confirm whether water actually entered.
● Bosch dishwasher not filling with water
Bosch units frequently include AquaStop leak protection technology hoses and base‑pan leak sensors. If the base pan has water, the machine will drain continuously and never fill until the leak is fixed and the pan is dried.
● Samsung dishwasher not filling with water
“LC” or related codes usually mean the leak sensor detected moisture in the base. Drying clears the code temporarily, but the underlying leak must be found.
● Frigidaire, Kenmore, Beko, Hotpoint & portable dishwashers
Same core logic: check door, float, valve, and supply. Portable units are especially prone to kinks or loose faucet adapters that restrict water flow.
If you have any of these brands in the Sacramento area and still can’t get water to enter after basic checks, Fair Appliance Repair Service can handle GE, Whirlpool, Bosch, Samsung, Frigidaire, Maytag, Kenmore, Beko, Hotpoint and more—often with same‑day appointment.
Users often search “how much does it cost to fix a dishwasher that won’t fill?” or “is it worth fixing my dishwasher not filling with water?”. Here’s a realistic 2025 breakdown:
● Water inlet valve: $20–$80
● Float or float switch: $15–$60
● Door latch kit: $25–$90
● New shut‑off valve & supply hose: $15–$50
If you’re handy and careful with water/electricity, you can handle some of these yourself.
● Service call + full diagnostic: $75–$120
● Inlet valve replacement (parts + labor): $150–$250
● Float switch or door latch repair: $140–$230
● Control board / timer replacement: $250–$450, depending on brand
If your dishwasher is 10–12+ years old and needs a control board, a replacement machine may be smarter. Fair Appliance Repair Service techs can walk you through repair‑vs‑replace options honestly.
● The under‑sink valve was off and you just needed to open it
● The float was obviously stuck and freed easily
● A simple cleaning of the inlet screen restored strong fill
● The problem clearly relates to a new installation mistake (wrong valve, kinked line)
● The dishwasher still won’t fill after all basic checks
● You suspect a bad valve coil, float switch, wiring fault, or control board
● There’s a burning smell, scorch marks, or tripped breaker
●The dishwasher fills with water when not in use (stuck‑open valve)
If you’re in Sacramento, Citrus Heights, Rocklin, Elk Grove, Fair Oaks, Antelope, Rio Linda, Roseville, Davis, Carmichael, Elverta, West Sacramento, Woodland, Granite Bay, North Highlands, Orangevale, Rancho Cordova, or McClellan Park, Professional Dishwasher Repair Service, same‑day option for dishwasher not filling with water problems.
● Phone: +1 916‑333‑8388
● Service: Licensed, insured, same‑day appointments when available
● Warranty: 12‑month warranty on most parts we install
Most often because of a closed water valve, stuck float, faulty door latch switch, clogged inlet valve screen, or a failed water inlet valve. New installs frequently have the shut‑off valve left off.
Blocked water supply, jammed float, bad float switch, misaligned door latch, clogged or failed inlet valve, or in rarer cases a bad control board or leak‑protection system.
Open the shut‑off valve fully, straighten the supply hose, check and clean the float, and inspect/clean the inlet valve screen. If it still doesn’t fill, the valve, float switch, or control board likely needs professional diagnosis.
The control board is trying to run the cycle, but the water path is blocked or the valve never opens. Focus on the float, inlet valve, and door switch.
The inlet valve is stuck open internally. Turn off the under‑sink valve immediately and arrange for the inlet valve to be replaced before using the dishwasher again.
